Surfbreak Analysis and Engineering
Brought to you by the COPRI Coastal Engineering Sciences Committee
Chair - Christopher Bender, Ph.D., P.E., D.CE, M.ASCE
Starting from the qualitative definition of a “surfable” wave, i.e. one on which a surfer can stay ahead of the break point without the wave “closing-out”, the nascent science of surfbreak analysis is explored. Well-established results from wave mechanics, coupled with probability modeling techniques, are applied in order to quantify the “surfability” of the incoming waves. This can provide coastal engineers with the means to assess the impacts of coastal projects (e.g. breakwater & jetty construction; beach nourishment) on recreational surfing, and determine if/how-much mitigation may be required. Also to be presented are three methods presently available to the engineer to modify incoming waves to enhance their surfability.
William R. Dally, Ph.D., P.E., M.ASCE
University of North Florida
Taylor Engineering Research Institute
College of Computing, Engineering, and Construction
William R. (Bill) Dally has been an active researcher, educator, and practitioner in coastal science and engineering for nearly 40 years, specializing in surf zone processes and beach dynamics. After earning a Bachelor’s degree in Civil Engineering (1977) and a Master’s degree in Coastal Engineering (1979) from the University of Delaware, he worked with the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers (1980-1984) at both the Wilmington, North Carolina District and the Coastal Engineering Research Center, Ft. Belvoir, Virginia. He then returned to graduate school, attending the University of Florida to earn a Ph.D. in Engineering Mechanics (1987). Dr. Dally served on the faculty at the Florida Institute of Technology for eleven years (1987-1998) before starting his own R&D and consulting company, Surfbreak Engineering Sciences, Inc., which remains active to this day. After a short tenure as a Project Director with the Port and Coastal Engineering Practice at Atkins North America (2011-2012), he returned to academia in 2013, joining the Taylor Engineering Research Institute at the University of North Florida as a faculty member in the Civil and Coastal Engineering programs. His education, research, consulting experience, and publication record encompass fundamental theory, numerical modeling, physical modeling, and laboratory and field data collection and analysis.
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